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How do I clean the Liger banger, inserts, etc.?

Liger Banger:

Simply disassemble the entire set-up; and allow it to soak in ISO (isopropyl alcohol) overnight. The next morning, dry everything off with a paper towel and Q-Tips.
If it has been awhile since you last gave your Liger a bath, you may find certain parts locked up with reclaim. Allow the Liger too soak for a couple hours, & re-try to disassemble by hand. If the locking nut got tightened to the point where it seems to be seizing, you may need a pair of pliers to help out. Before using the pliers, take a paper towel and fold it over 4-5 times. This will act as a barrier between the pliers and Titanium to help prevent scratches/imprints (grd 2 Ti is a soft metal and will damage fairly easily). Place the folded paper towel on the locking nut, then gently apply the pliers (be careful with the level of pressure applied: again Ti is soft), with your other hand grip the vapor bucket. Simply twist the vapor bucket with your hand until it breaks free.


Use 2 Q-tips (both sides) after every dab! This is key as it will keep the insert very clean overall; just be sure to wipe/scrub before the oil turns black and starts to turn hard!
Consistent maintenance is key to cleaning the inserts as they experience the most wear-and-tear. When dabbing, keep your temperatures low: this way, you will be able to soak up the excess oil in the dish after each dab with a clean Q-tip. Temperatures that are too high will result in a dry, carbon “crust” building up in the bucket that can not be wiped out with a Q-tip.

Removing the “Crust”

Easiest and Most Efficient Way to Clean all Inserts:
  1. Find/Buy 2 eye-drop containers, fill 1 with distilled water & the other with 91%+ ISO
  2. With all your equipment installed (like you would have it if you were taking a dab), turn your E-nail down to 225° F
  3. Grab a stack of Q-Tips! You will need them handy for the next step
  4. Once the E-nail is at 225°, take your Distilled water dropper & carefully apply 1 drop at a time directly into the insert (Be-careful! It likes to quickly overfill!) {USE Q-TIPS IN CASE OF OVERFLOW}
  5. Once the water is almost finished boiling inside the insert, apply a single drop of ISO into the insert
  6. Scrub clean with your Q-tip before the ISO evaporates
  7. Repeat steps 4 – 6 as necessary. (I usually repeat it 2 or 3 times)
  8. Enjoy your perfectly clean surface!
What is seasoning a nail? Does only Ti need seasoned? What about Quartz, SiC & Sapphire?

Seasoning a nail is allowing some unvaporized material (carbon, aka black 'crust') to build up on your vaporization surface. This is done when utilizing titanium as the vaporization surface tends to absorb some of the material (due to porosity). One avoids direct contact to titanium by building up a small layer of carbon, then vaporizing onto this carbon layer. This will increase flavor potency as Titanium has PPM (parts per million) impurities that can lower the true flavor potential.

However, with Sapphire, SiC or Quartz 'seasoning' is not necessary. In fact, having a clean insert surface (no carbon build up whatsoever) will deliver the very best flavors & aromas! This is due to the insert properties: the non-porous nature, and purity of the material. More important than the insert material is how clean the insert is (when focusing on flavor alone). If one has an insert that is full of unvaporized carbon build up, you will not be experiencing the full benefits of said insert (you honestly might as well be utilizing plain Ti). In-order to ensure the cleanest vaporization surface possible: Q-Tip after each dab to wipe out the unvaporized material before it hardens. This tends to keep the inserts very clean; and rarely is a deep clean needed via the eye-drop method to ensure the vaporization surface is spotless.

The Liger looks heavy—I’m afraid it will knock over my smaller boro. How much does the v2 Liger weigh?

The Liger Banger’s imposing size belies its light weight: the v2 16mm clocks in at 2.1 oz., and the v2 20mm is 2.6 oz, (approx the same weight as a tennis ball).
While the Liger itself does not pose too great a threat of a tipping accident, there is a risk posed by the heater coil, as the majority of the weight will be in the direction of the coil cable.

To prevent any mishaps, ensure that the heater coil cable is running back towards your boro: this will force the weight back onto the glass base, where it is most direct and effective.

What makes up cannabis?

Cannabis is made up of a variety of strain-specific cannabinoids & terpenes.

The cannabinoids are the active constituents of cannabis, each strain of cannabis containing a unique blend.

Some of the most common are:

  • Cannabigerols (CBG);
  • Cannabichromenes (CBC);
  • Cannabidiols (CBD);
  • Tetrahydrocannabinols (THC);
  • Cannabinol (CBN) and cannabinodiol (CBDL)

Other cannabinoids (such as cannabicyclol (CBL), cannabielsoin (CBE), cannabitriol (CBT) and other miscellaneous types).

Terpenes are the components responsible for the intense & extremely unique aromas and tastes. Over 120 different terpenes have been found in cannabis, each strain consisting of a unique blends in differing magnitudes: some strains only have trace amounts, while others have as high as double-digit percentages.

Some terpenes are said to modulate the physiological and psychoactive effects of cannabis.

When does cannabis begin to vaporize?

When reaching temperatures of approx. 93°C - 204°C (200°F - 400°F) the most volatile terpenes/cannabinoids vaporize, thereby releasing their distinct aromas & flavors. At approx. 204°C - 302°C (400°F - 575°F) the least volatile cannabinoids vaporize, amongst which is THC. At higher temperatures (455°C/850°F and up) are applied, solid vegetable matter and flammable contaminants will begin to combust.

What are the ideal temps for e-nail vaporization of cannabis extracts with the Liger?

Temperatures canrange greatly depending on many factors—materials, thickness, size, and construction of the nail; efficiency of the coil and PID; type of extract; use of a carb cap or insert, etc.

A lower temp will generally result in a more flavorful dab with some “pooling” (remaining, un-sublimated oil) and “streaming” (slow vapor trail rising from the bucket when not in use). A dab at the higher end of the range will generally result in a more “complete” dab (thicker, “white-walling” of vapor in the boro, etc.) with a slightly harsher hit and flavor. Here is a general guide to the ideal temperature range for the Liger:


No Carb Cap

w/Storm Cell

Raw Titanium 16mm

650°F – 725°F

575°F – 650°F

Raw Titanium 20mm

675°F – 750°F

600°F – 675°F

w/Quartz 16mm

700°F – 775°F

625°F – 700°F

w/Quartz 20mm

725°F – 800°F

650°F – 725°F

w/SiC 16mm

675°F – 750°F

600°F – 675°F

w/SiC 20mm

700°F – 775°F

625°F – 700°F

Flowers Vs. Extracts:

Recent years has seen a great rise in the availability of extracts, as well as an increase in the ease of “do-it-yourself” extracts at home (rosin tech, BHO, water extraction, dry sift, ect.). In addition to the ease of access afforded by extracts, they are discreet to use because they dissipate quickly, and a large supply can be stored in a small, secure container (especially helpful for patients with small children). Because extracts are highly concentrated, the ratio of active matter to plant matter is very high: you will vaporize less material with little to no combustion of plant matter.

To summarize, extracts are the perfect choice because of availability; discretion; portability; less combustion; concentrated active materials.

Why vaporizing cannabis is a healthier alternative to smoking cannabis:

There is a vast difference in the effects and experience of vaporizing a substance versus smoking it. Smoking a joint or taking a hit from a bong are examples of utilizing an open flame for combustion. When an open flame is utilized to smoke cannabis or tobacco, the extremely high temperatures of the flame (approx 2000°C - 3600°C) destroy the majority of the material. A direct consequence of the combustion is the creation of many health-damaging toxins:  smoke is approximately 88% toxins, such as carbon-monoxide, tar, and PAHs.  Yumm!!

On the other hand, vaporization offers an immensely more pure form of ingestion for the health-conscious individual. Vaporizing cannabis grants the user the ability to evaporate the active cannabinoids/terpenes within the cannabis material without the high temperatures needed to burn plant matter or contaminants. Due to this, one will not find the extremely dangerous toxins found in smoke (carbon-monoxide, tar, etc.). Vaporizing delivers to the user up to 95% pure cannabinoids/terpenes—the active ingredients that are responsible for the aroma, flavors, and psychoactive properties of cannabis.
How does vaporizing compare to smoking when considering the smell?

Due to the absence of tar or other harmful chemicals, vapor does not tend to linger or cling to surroundings (clothes, hair, carpets, curtains, etc.). The vapor dissipates very quickly and produces an aroma that is mild, “herby”, filled with pure flavor.

Differences in E-nails:

Upgrading to a Digital Electronic Nail (E-nail) will be the single biggest leap you can take in next gen vaporization! That being said, it can be confusing and somewhat intimidating with all the options on the current market; especially with the massive difference in prices from 900$ - 80$. So what exactly is the difference between all the different E-nails? To answer this question we need to first know what’s under the hood of your average E-nail. By understanding the basic make up, one can easily distinguish the differences between high & low quality.

The heart of any E-nail is the Digital PID controller. The PID is a small computer that is constantly analyzing & adapting to the current temperature of your heater coil. It learns & can teach itself to become more accurate over time. Secondary to the PID controller, the Enail has the remaining components:
  1. an ac power cord input
  2. a simple power switch (possible 2, many have a secondary switch for the heater coil)
  3. a SSR (solid state relay)
  4. a XLR adapter for the coil.
  5. assorted wires & connectors
Besides these 5 simple pieces, the only difference between any E-nail is the individual who soldered the parts together. Therefore, with any E-nail, the main priority is to have the highest quality PID controller possible.
    For the $80-$400 price range you will find the majority of your E-nails on the marketplace; however what you are looking for is a high quality PID for a reasonable price.

    See the following for some commonly used PID temperature controllers in E-nails with their approximate cost:

    CAL 3200 & 3300 PID controllers ($200-$230)

    Omron E5CC PID controller - ($80)


    ENDA ET2011 PID controller - ($80)

    Auber PID controler - ($35)

    MyPin PID controller - ($25)

    For individuals with electronic experience, some easy web searching will yield plentiful discussions on DIY E-nails; if you’re interested in simply making one yourself and saving some $$$.

    Why Use a Carb Cap?

    A carb cap, when applied, lowers the internal atmospheric pressure of the vaporization dish. This makes it easier for the molecules to transition from a solid form into a vapor (a process called sublimation).

    CCA offers carb caps specifically designed to allow the user to tune their caps to their own rig, forcing the air into an active vortex, further enabling consistent and even sublimation: this maximizes the flavor, vapor quality, and efficiency of consumption. This is all due to the revolutionary air flow adjust!

    You can also control how much or little you inhale: since the cap creates a closed loop, you don’t have to get all of the dab on the first shot, but can take it in several "breaths". Almost like hitting a "dab hookah".

    What is Anodizing? How do you keep the titanium colors from dulling?

    All Titanium is naturally anodized (colored) silver due to the oxygen in the environment. CCA has a proprietary in-house polish and cleaning process that all Titanium products go through before shipping out. This process strips the Ti of the oxide layer, to allow for deep cleaning of the micro pores and purification of the surface.

    An electrical current is then utilized to rebuild the oxide layer to the desired thickness. The difference in the thickness of the oxide layer is what grants the differences in color. The oxide layer is responsible for more than color, however: it acts as a protective layer that greatly increases the chemical resistances of Titanium, and is directly responsible for greatly decreasing the active rate of off-gassing released by Titanium. Anodizing may look great, but many fail to see the true benefits gained from a precise oxide layer.

    While the colors of anodized titanium can dull over time, this is easily remedied: simply disassemble the entire set-up, and allow it to soak in isopropyl alcohol (ISO) overnight; after soaking, dry everything off with a paper towel and Q-tips.

    What is the difference between a no-insert titanium bucket, and a bucket with a Quartz or SiC insert?

    The titanium bucket provides strength and protection against small drops, spills, etc. While it works and tastes far better than your average Ti nail, the insert allows the user to experience the superior taste of the actively vaporizing material, with the added comfort of the Ti for protection (peace of mind from accidents).

    It is amazing how close the flavor profiles of Quartz & SiC are when they are both polished to the absolute best surface finish possible. With all CCA inserts, the vaporization surface is literally an aerospace TOL polish. This allows for ease of cleaning, durability, and maximum flavor output.

    The Quartz is clear and it can be enjoyable to view the anodized bucket through its transparent surface, which also makes it easier to spot areas that need to be cleaned. The SiC is opaque grey. Because it has superior heat retention, it can be run at a lower temperature than the Quartz.

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